A celebrity wine worth buying

A few months ago, I wrote about the launch of Drew Barrymore’s wine project with the release of a pinot grigio from Italy bearing the actress’s name. It was one more celebrity foray into winemaking and, as I said in my review back then, the wine was nothing special when compared with many other examples from the crowded pinot grigio field.

Now comes another celebrity wine from Italy, that of Andrea Bocelli, the superstar Italian tenor, and his brother Alberto. Among other wines, they have released a $14 red, the 2011 Rosso Toscana, and it is worthy of a bow by the Bocelli brothers.

The wine, one of a number being bottled under the Bocelli label, is made from 100 percent sangiovese, Tuscany’s signature variety. The grapes are from the Morellino area of southern Tuscany. The wine is young and fruity and what I look for when serving simple pasta dishes. We enjoyed it the other night with a sauce of yellow tomatoes and sweet and hot Italian pork sausages.

With its ripe raspberry, blueberry and black cherry tastes, it complemented the sweetness of the tomatoes and tamed the heat of the hot sausages. The fruit is accented by subtle leather and brown sugar notes. There is decent tannic structure and alcohol is 13 percent.

The wine’s marketing notes point out that the Bocelli family has been making wine for more than 130 years. It shows. This inexpensive red can compete with any number of Chiantis and other Tuscan wines at this price. Is it a profound wine? No. But it’s simply delicious – a very good wine first, a celebrity wine second. And for that I say: Bravo, Andrea.


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