Napa Sauvignon Blanc: Chronicle Recommends

From a lineup of about 40 wines, a healthy crop of fresh, pretty Sauvignon Blancs emerged that do justice to what you might call a California style: flavors that fell neither to the grassy pastures of New Zealand nor the tropical fruit juice that sometimes marks North Coast specimens. 2011 Green & Red Catacula Vineyard Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($20, 13.8% alcohol): It’s so rewarding to see Jay Heminway’s benchmark Zinfandel label also show its hand with white wine, in this case from 2 acres of the Sauvignon Musque selection off his site in eastern Napa County. 2011 Franciscan Estate Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($17, 13%): Credit winemaker Janet Myers with bringing a high level of effort to this relatively new bottle for Franciscan, including more than six hours of soaking grapes (obtained from a range of Napa sites) on their skins for a denser flavor. 2011 Alta Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($18, 13.6%): From a relatively new Atlas Peak label, this actually comes from grapes grown on the organically farmed Heitz vineyard in Pope Valley, fermented in a mix of steel and older oak barrels. 2011 Cade Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($26, 14.2%): For loyalists of the Mondavi Fumé Blanc style, Cade is there to deliver a barrel-fermented effort with 35 percent new oak that shows muscle and a gin-like juniper headiness, with citrus kick to match its opulent, creamy texture. 2011 Selene Hyde Vineyards Carneros Sauvignon Blanc ($28, 14.1%): That mix of winemaker Mia Klein and Larry Hyde’s vineyards has been going strong for 20 years, and with a blend of old oak and mostly small steel barrels, this banks on intense fruit: gooseberry and ripe pear, with a floral aspect, although it’s quieter at moments than expected.


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