One Day, One Place: Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country, B.c.

Canada’s highest concentration of wineries, in a spectacular setting that offers plenty of attractions for non-oenophiles, too. Named for the two towns at either end of 16 miles that stretch to the Washington border, Oliver Osoyoos boasts an amazing array of varietals, from Arneis to Zinfandel. First things, and First Nations, first: Start your day in Osoyoos at the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre, open daily at 9:30 a.m. Pronounced “In-ka-meep,” which means “bottomland,” the striking center made of rammed earth focuses on the Osoyoos Indian Band, one of eight communities of the Okanagan Nation, and the flora and fauna of their desert home. Platinum Bench Estate Winery & Artisan Bread Co. makes an ideal start to wine tasting along the Black Sage Bench, the wine country’s eastern flank. Before moving here from Manitoba, co-owners Murray Jones and Fiona Duncan used to spend weekends in Napa and Sonoma after her weeklong San Francisco courses in bread making. The sandy soil, late-afternoon sun and cool evenings help Jones create big, Napa-style Syrah and Cabernet Franc, lighter Gamay Noir, crisp and fruity Pinot Gris and a citrusy Chardonnay-Viognier blend known as Mur-Fi’s White, among other wines. Be aware that Duncan’s sourdough loaves, twisted in a style known as pain d’épi, or wheat-stalk bread, and infused with local cheeses, sell out quickly. After whetting your appetite, cross over to the Golden Mile Bench, as the western flank of Oliver Osoyoos is known, for a late lunch and more wine tasting at Hester Creek Estate Winery in Oliver. Terrafina, the winery’s Tuscan-style restaurant, offers pizza, panini, pasta and, if you want to keep the tasting theme going, build-your-own boards of charcuterie and other savories. Wine lovers will want to make the short drive back to the Black Sage Bench for further tasting at Bartier Bros., an “effectively organic” winery, according to co-owner Michael Bartier. Pick up a last few phrases, and wineglasses, near the cultural center where the day began; the Nk’Mip Cellars tasting room stays open till 8 p.m. in summer. The first aboriginal-owned winery in North America (now in partnership with Fortune 500 company Constellation Brands) routinely wins Canada’s top wine honors for its premium Qwam Qwmt (“kw-em kw-empt”) collection, whose name appropriately means “achieving excellence.” Cantilevered above the grapevines and grassy amphitheater at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, Miradoro offers sweeping vistas to the east, paired with locally sourced cuisine from one of British Columbia’s leading chefs. Six hilltop suites with kitchenettes, soaking tubs and walk-in showers, from $255, including breakfast. www.hestercreek.com/villa


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