The wine wizards have spoken. Penfolds’ Bin 95 Grange 2013 ($850) is as near to perfection as you get. James Halliday gave it 99 points, Brisbane wine critic Ken Gargett the same while another leading critic, Tyson Stelzer, awarded it 98. Halliday says the new release is “gloriously, splendiferously complex”. The nation’s foremost critic adds: “There are so many layers of flavour it’s labyrinthine, yet you never lose the thread, the path, of the wine.”