The 72 wines of the Hemel & Aarde appellation tasted this morning were more heaven than earth, although that point made, we did encounter three examples of Portuguese terroir in the form of cork taint. Although with zero corks on Friday and Saturday, the odds are shortening rapidly to 3/400. A far cry from the 10% of days recently passed. But as one door closes, another opens and Brett comes to the fore in wines suddenly super clean.

As expected, wonderful Pinots Noir and absolutely world class Chardonnays. The H & V valley is so damp with terroir, you could see it dripping down the windows of the La Vierge tasting room. A facility so modern, the gents boasts urinals mounted into the windows with a vista out onto Dolly Parton mountain cleavage. Vineyards workers are instructed to wave to gentlemen relieving themselves and most reply with a jolly wave.