The pieces are starting to fall into place to ensure that Wellington, for too long the unfashionable stepchild of the Paarl wine appellation, is emerging as the sexiest of sites in the Winelands. Directly opposite the entrance to Bosman Family Vineyards on the Hexenberg Road is Twist some more , a tony bistro and bar run by chef Johan van Schalkwyk (below) who is even more dapper than Jack Twist, the confused cowboy played by Jake Gyllenhaal in the film Brokeback Mountain.

After blind tasting 80+ wines at DGB in Lady Loch, Wellington yesterday, I was up for the grilled pork chops at Twist and there were wild boar hamburgers on the menu, although Food|Wine|Design’s Ross Douglas commented “impossible. Wild boar is a different species. They must be feral pigs.”. Charl (below) is the waiter and was a little unsteady on his feet as he had served local wine identities Dennis and Dotters Kerrison (Doolhof), James McKenzie (Nabygelegen) plus Stuart Entwistle who owns Val du Charron, the previous evening.