Yesterday’s best wine was the Carvalhas 2011 white served before lunch at Real Companhia Velha in Porto. An intense blend of Viosinho, Rabigato and Codega made by Jorge Moreira (below), you’d never guess it was only 12% alcohol, so powerful is the palate.

The second in a line-up of five wines, it was the only one made by Jorge and stood apart from the rest like the Calem barco rabelo which seemed to win the annual Douro boat race yesterday. Confirming my long held contention that when it comes to terroir, that tasteable combination of soil, climate, aspect and man (SCAM for short), Jorge is first among equals.

As for the fortunes of the Real Companhia Velha barco rabelo in the race yesterday, it was no contest. “We had one of the biggest rabelos” remembers Jorge “and we always came last. So it sank.” Something you can’t say about the Carvalhas.