Who Stella'd my Dora?

Cape Town is both the gay and wine capital of SA. So it makes sense for winemakers to reach out to the sexually diverse community. For as WOSA used to say (when they said anything at all) diversity is in our nature. My tiny wine column in The Times, about to be Viagra’d by a new Sunday best value column in the City Press, shines the spotlight on a very gay red.

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Bottle of the Week: Doran Vineyards Shiraz 2013

How much and where? R79; www.doranvineyards.co.za

Why? You hear “who stella’d my dora?” (translation: “who stole my drink?) less and less in the bars and night clubs of De Waterkant these days as Tinder and Grindr decimates the demimonde. If the current drought continues much longer, there won’t be much Doran, either. For Rosa Kruger, a celebrity viticulturalist dubbed “the éminence grise of Cape vines” by the Financial Times, reports that Swartland yields are down 60% this vintage as opposed to 20% for the rest of the winelands.

Which is bad news indeed for Doran vineyards, located as they are on the foothills of the “Paardeberg, the heart of the Swartland” as Rika Sennett used to say about Bokomo cereals, with a rather fetching “brei”.

This wine is a full-on fruity taste sensation as opposed to those etiolated dried-out Syrahs from Stellenbosch. Buy and lay down as volumes tighten.

André Badenhorst makes the wine for his Dickensian friend Edwin Doran. But André’s finest vintage was undoubtedly his son Adi, the second most famous winemaker in the Swartland. André himself is no slouch, having been born on Groot Constantia, where it all started three and a half centuries ago. It’s taken a lifetime to travel 80km and move from Vin de Constance to Dora.

Rating: ****

*****: Amanda (amazing)

****: Beulah (beautiful)

***: Nora (silly)

**: Olga (ugly)

*: Hilda (horrible)