In his two-star review of New York’s Dirty French, New York Times critic Pete Wells described model-cum-sommelier Lelañea Fulton as “dressed like one of Charlie’s Angels working undercover.” In the world of wine, it’s rare to see someone like Fulton: Sommeliers typically dress like corporate consultants, but Fulton, a 35-year-old West Virginia native (who has since left Dirty French and is now working on forthcoming Hollywood restaurant Soul), favors vintage Gunne Sax dresses that are ultrafeminine and bohemian. If anything, her unorthodox outfit choices—combined with her mission to make wine something that’s playful and easy to discuss—have given her a competitive edge.