I’ve longed to return to my favourite sandpit and when life squirted lemon in my eye, (bar the tequila) I knew it was time to hit the lonely road.
You haven’t experienced distance till you have road tripped through Namibia. It’s a long stretch of nothing except but a few bushes (also only after the rainy season), sand and rocks. But, if you need time to reflect you can ask for nothing more.
The adventure started on a Thursday morning, leaving the house at 03:30 and heading north. As the sun rose and the caffeine kicked in you realise…you need more coffee, nothing can prepare you. Driving on the N7 you quickly forget about the hustle and bustle of suburban life. The road starts opening up and the towns start getting smaller.
One of the highlights was definitely the Velskoendraai Farmers Market and Restaurant. They make a mean cup of coffee, lovely service and an array of different preserves and dried fruits from which to choose. They have an interesting shop to visit and definitely worth the stop.
Motoring through to the end of SA as we know it, we enter the SA/Namibia border. By this time your buttocks have no feeling left and you have come way too far to turn around. So you take the 4km over the no-man’s-land and the Orange River to the most beautiful country in the world.
Our journey took us to slightly off the beaten track (about 90km in one direction on a shaky gravel road) with an overnight stay at the Ai Ais resort. For those of you who did not know, this resort borders the Fish River Canyon and has 3 accommodation elements to it. You can either camp, stay in a family chalet or stay in the hotel bit, which we selected.
Now, what you also may not have known is that the Ai Ais resort is in fact a hot spring… (the very name meaning place of burning water) and if you stay in the hotel your room door may very well open straight onto the steamy hot pools around which the hotel is built.
This resort also has a full bar, shop and restaurant, which was great for weary travellers. I believe also the coolest and most crisp Namibian Brewery brewed Hansa Draught (or it could’ve just been the heat and exhaustion). But sitting on the deck and overlooking the campsite with a mountain range to protect you against the elements, you start realizing the perseverance it must’ve taken these people to carve an existence out of this land.
After a hot spring soaking and a steak supper it was bed time, air-conditioned rooms and crisp white linen, it really was a treat.
Day 2
Day 2 saw another early start with the expedition heading further north, as we make our way to Swakopmund and the Namib Desert.
The best pit-stop in Namibia was definitely Kitchen 51, just outside of Keetmanshoop, it’s a fairly new addition to the road trip as I seem to have been the only person who has ever stopped there? Impeccable service, this restaurant and deli prides itself on making all its own cured meat products. The coffee alone was worth a stop.
I bought some coppa for our stay in Swakop, but stopped on the way back for chorizo, salami and a take away supper which consisted of slow roasted and shredded lamb and home baked roosterkoek.
With evening fast approaching, we enter the Erongo region and make our way to the coast, having missed the spectacular greeting of the desert until the next day.
Day 3
Waking up in a haze of mist and a cool Swakopmund sea breeze, enlightens all senses and you know the adventure is calling you.
Driving through the town of Swakopmund transports you into a different era, the German influence is unmissable with German style architecture everywhere you look. And what’s a breakfast without stopping at the corner Bäckerei for bretzel and freshly baked croissant? Coffee and carbs sorted, we head to Walvisbay, a very busy coastal town about 30km along the coast to the south to go climb a dune.
Dune 7 is probably the most famous dune in Namibia, if not the world, this monster has been conquered by many, but none that could say they didn’t have sand in awkward places for at least 3 days.
When visiting Walvisbay one has to include the Lagoon, one of the most important wetlands in the southern hemisphere, and a very popular feeding spot for the Greater Flamingo. You can get quite close to these pretty-in-pink birds that seem a little awkward at first but displays such elegance in flight.
You can also visit the saltpans and be mesmerized by mountains of salt that has been excavated from the mineral rich waterbeds.
Day 4
No trip to the desert is complete without some dune action…and just climbing one is just not enough. This country has perfected the art of desert sports…climb them, ski them, ride them, slide them, it’s all on offer, and for us…we opted for a quad bike option.
We went with Daredevil Adventures, they are situated opposite the Lang Strand which is a popular beach resort along the Swakop/Walvis route.
They have a variety of options available, but it all involves you riding your own quadbike through the warm desert dunes, up and down…even the blind side of the dunes. It’s a thrilling hour of beauty and adrenalin, no previous riding experience is necessary and all ages are welcome.
The Kristall Gallery is also worth a visit, some of the world’s largest quartz crystals are on display, you can also view and purchase Pietersite, unique to Namibia. (A stone found by Pieter from Karibib who described it as the most beautiful semi-precious stone in the world when interviewed)
A beautiful morning called for a bike ride to the Tiger Reef beach bar, this beach bar is unlike anything else, when it started years ago it was wooden tables and chairs on the beach with a container as a bar. The same happens today though as it did back then…spring tide…and the bar washes away, only to be “rebuilt” the next day. Today there is a lot more infrastructure in place but there is no mistaking the power of the Atlantic Ocean that breaks a few meters away with an array of driftwood and other treasures being delivered to you with every wave.
Ice cold Groβe Draught and delicious food, served with a plate cover to retain the heat in the outside restaurant.
Day 6
Heading home after an adventurous couple of days in the sand and the sun called for a few extra stops on the way.
Places to visit on the road back to SA would be The Henckert Tourist Centre in Karibib, Nabim Oasis Farmstall & Deli just outside Usakos and the African Curios stalls in Okahandja.
No visit to Namibia is complete without supper at Joe’s Beerhouse, this institution in the heart of Windhoek is a favourite between locals and tourists alike, but be warned, bookings are essential, unless you are willing to wait for a seat at the bar.
You can keep yourself entertained with the décor alone, you will see something new every time you go. Joe likes a bit of vintage picking in his free time.
Day 7
All the way back on the endless stretches of tar and rock we stay over in Die Withuis, it’s a lovely guesthouse in Grϋnau, you can choose between a cooked meal, braai packs or bring your own, there are hiking trails and a swimming pool. True to Namibian style, the hospitality is unrivalled, family owned and managed one can get lost in this part of the world.
Driving what feels like an endless road back to civilization I am reminded of why I will not fly to Namibia, the drive is part of the journey, and the endless open spaces humbles and calms you.
Till next time Nam…we will meet again
