Wine Without a Hangover? It’s a Miracle!

There’s a lot of hype around natural wines: They’re experimental, funky, genre-breaking, and hangover-headache-preventing. And some of this is even true!

Natural wine is a very real “thing” right now. (You could call it the new rosé, except it sometimes is rosé.) There are wine bars in New York and San Francisco given over entirely to the movement. There are shops with natural-wine sections as expansive as the fiefdoms dedicated to France. There are sommeliers who preach its deliciousness with missionary zeal.

It’s minimally interventionist, wine nerds say. It’s gentler on the earth, a man mansplains, holding his glass up to the light. I’ve heard it doesn’t cause hangovers, your friend stage-whispers. In chorus, their voices rise: It’s the only wine worth drinking!


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