I have to admit when the word ‘brand’ comes up in conversation, my eyes glaze over. There’s something so calculating about the concept, it suggests brands are only ever boring in their interminable sameness. Coca Cola and McDonalds typify big brand boring (and I’ve no desire to drink the former nor buy a burger from the latter), but the other day I was disabused of my perception of at least one brand.

I’ve long admired the wines of Edmund Terblanche, cellarmaster at La Motte in Franschhoek, particularly as they follow my favoured classic style. It was so many years since I last visited the farm that I’m embarrassed to even think when it was. I was encouraged to right the wrong, firstly as I’m La Motte’s current Platter taster; then Tim James and I had been exceptionally impressed with the latest Hanneli R 2009 when we tasted it late last year.