Posted on the walls of select Parisian wine bars is the wine world’s version of a pin-up calendar—12+ months of harvesters and the winemaker posing nude at legendary natural producer Domaine Lapierre. Aaron Ayscough peels back the pages of Mathieu Lapierre’s calendar.

Behind the bar at Le Bist’roch in Nuits are two curious items—things you don’t expect to see at a hardscrabble Burgundian natural wine bar owned by Domaine Prieuré Roch. One is a tiny version of the domaine’s wine bottle filled with white peppercorns from Cameroon, the product of a far-flung négoçiant project inspired by the owner’s wife.

The other is a bearded nude man with a jeroboam between his legs, beaming down from a calendar behind the bar.