Bare with me, I seem to be going through an Elgin infatuation as we … speak? It probably won’t pass, however I’ll most certainly move to another obsession next week that will keep me preoccupied for a little while. In this instance, I’ve been fortunate enough to taste a couple of their stunning Chardonnays over the last few weeks, and decided to stick my “aches-ridden” neck out for it as a variety (dramatic huh?).

Yes the severe Chardonnay bashing in protest of those heavily wooded over ripe wines was long overdue and consumers needed to send out a strong, solidified message; but the ever adapting and evolving wine makers (they hold a reverend place in my heart) have mostly listened and hit back with some jaw dropping muscle! Fair enough, you can affirm that you aren’t a fan of plank in a glass: but to write-off an entire variety because you think they only come in 2 x 4 sizes, is a lot ignorant, is it not?

Take a mere 3 examples from said hallowed ground whose cool climate is perfect for Chardonnay:

Winters Drift 2013

Half of this wine gets fermented in stainless steel tanks and inoculated with “store”-bought yeast. The other half is placed in French oak barrels (I suspect older barrels) and let to naturally ferment over 9 months. It further undergoes malolactic fermentation where the Malic acid (think green Granny Smith apples) is converted into Lactic acid (think milk, cream and butter) that turns down the acidity and offers that fatness.

The results are impressive. I picked up that ground nut character I associate with natural ferment, creamy vanilla and lemons on the nose…