Is Jay Z’s New All-Pinot Champagne Worth $760 a Bottle?

Rapper Jay Z’s latest venture, an all-pinot Armand de Brignac “Ace of Spades” Champagne, will be released in October. A few tastes were doled out at Vinexpo in Bordeaux in June, but alas, Shawn Corey Carter didn’t drop by the booth as everyone hoped he would.

This blanc de noirs is the brand’s most expensive and exclusive fizz yet, so when I finally sampled it last week, my first thought was: How much of the $760 price tag is for bling? Short answer: much of it.

Don’t get me wrong. This new Ace of Spades bubbly is full, rich, and tangy—and way better and more elegant than it has to be for a wine that may end up more status symbol than collectible. The buxom fruit flavors hit you right upfront and then reverberate like an insistent rap beat.