Lambrusco, the wine your parents sneered at, is now hot

The nicest thing about recommending wine to Gen Xers and Gen Yers is that if you tell them that riesling is the world’s greatest white wine grape and they say, “OK, cool; so show me.”

You hand them a glass of well-made Mosel; they go “Wow.”

That doesn’t happen with baby boomers or those called “the silent generation,” people 50 years old and up. By and large, these folk are convinced that all riesling is mawkishly sweet and so they avoid it. I never see so much face scrunching on a boomer than when I say “riesling.”

The happy aspect about this generational divide is that the Ys and Xs are now beginning to run the wine show. They bring so much fresh air into the cellar. They love dry sherries, the wines of heretofore unsung Greece and Portugal and, of course, riesling wearing its many coats.

Another wine marks off these same cadres among generations; Lambrusco.