Mexican Distillers Fight Over the Word Agave

Who owns the word “agave”?

A select group of tequila and mezcal producers would if a controversial piece of legislation in Mexico wins approval.

Both tequila and mezcal — tequila’s older, smokier cousin — are made from agave, a breed of succulent that has been grown and distilled in Mexico for centuries.

But agave is the root material of many other indigenous Mexican spirits. That, say opponents to the proposed regulation, is the problem. If the new regulation passes, these liquors would be barred from using the word agave, or even from making their spirits within government-designated areas reserved for tequila or mezcal. Instead, they would have to call their products “agavacea aguardiente” or “distilled agavacea,” the family of plants that include the agave.


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