Move over, Big Vodka: Craft distillers have already taken their shot at gin and bourbon, and now they’re moving in on vodka’s turf.

Vodka brand giants Smirnoff and Absolut were already dealing with a sales hangover as American drinkers, especially young adults, switched to more flavorful spirits produced by smaller distilleries. For the most part, these drinkers have grown less interested in what Bloomberg termed, “Russian mystique and Scandinavian chic.” Sales volumes for both have ticked down in recent years, while sales of artisanal vodkas like Tito’s Handmade and New Amsterdam (which is actually owned by wine behemoth E&J Gallo) have grown steadily.