Ever since the devastating Phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century that almost completely wiped out the European wine industry, winemakers have been relying heavily on grafting. This involved grafting a piece of an European “scion” (the branch) onto a root of a more resistant American root or stock. This lead to a mix and match between quite a few varietals, and led people to question more the characteristics of these vines they are working with.

Varietals can be differentiated by its morphologic characteristics (colour, form, the volume of the grapes, the leaves) or its physiological characteristics (time of flowering, maturity of grapes, sensitivity to diseases, tannins, aromas etc.) Usually winemakers will choose the variety in accordance with the type of soil and climate as well as the quality of the wine he is aiming to make.

Grafting is no easy business. The root has to fulfill several conditions: it had to resist phylloxera, be able to adapt to the ‘terroir’ and be compatible with the scion. Even today every country belonging to the European Union has a list of recommended roots.

When it comes to varieties, we all know the basics. These are of course for reds – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot, Shiraz. In whites – Chardonnay, Chenin, Riesling, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon, Semillion. But there are a world of other varieties to explore.

Reds:

Grenache

Getting more and more popular by the day, this variety of Spanish origins planted in France in the 14th century, is rich in alcohol and low in acidity. It is usually married together with Mourvedre and Syrah (Shiraz).

Gamay

The gamay plant loves a terrior with lots of granite and is low in tannins and a bit more acidic. Gamay is popularly produced in the Loire valley in France and in Switzerland.

Cinsault

This variety loves heat and brings lightness to any blend.

Barbera

Very popular in Italy and California with a beautiful acidity.

Nebbiolo

This is an Italian variety which packs a big acidic and tannic punch, and usually needs a bit of resting time in a bottle before enjoying.

Mondeuse

Very structured and tannic.

Tempranillo

Considered one of the noblest of the spanish varieties, this variety is described as strong, but harmonious.

Negrette

This variety is rather rare. Brings flavours of licorice and red fruits to the table.

Zinfandel

Often named the Champion of California, this variety is rich in sugar and fruity aromas. Best on its own or paired with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.

Whites:

Colombard

A variety that is fresh, acidic and best enjoyed young.

Mauzac

A rare variety with aromas of apples.

Vermentino

One of Corsica’s well known varieties that is rather full bodied.

Sylvaner

Typically from the Alsace region in France, this variety is supple, simple and floral.

Muller Thurgau

Mix between Riesling and Sylvaner, promises a robust wine with light notes of musk.

Marsanne

Variety from the north of the Rhone valley, with a more unrefined character.

Welschriesling

Not at all a Riesling apparently, fruity and light, cultivated in Austria, northern Italy and the south west of Europe.

I for one have not had the honour of tasting all of these exotic blends, but these beauties have been added to my list and I will be reading all of the wine labels in store more carefully.


more on winewhiskers.co.za