A Tim Atkin ‘First Growth’: Crystallum Pinot & Chardonnay

‘Peter-Allan Finlayson makes some of the best Pinot Noirs in South Africa,’ asserts international critic and Master of Wine Tim Atkin in his 2014 special report. Having been promoted to the lofty realm of the Cape ‘First Growths’ in this year’s classification, Crystallum is one of Atkin’s top 12 South African producers, ranking alongside winemaking legends and visionaries such as Mullineux, Chamonix, Kanonkop and Sadie Family.
Peter-Allan’s remarkable Pinot Noir single vineyards speak of a winemaker who has found his rhythm. The former Young Gun excels in the 2013 vintage with wines that beautifully express their specificterroirs – from the feminine and youthful Mabelel to the fuller-bodied Bone Fide and the finely tunedCuvée Cinéma. These are true expressions of place.
Atkin also counts Crystallum’s whites amongst the country’s top Chardonnays. The Agnes Chardonnay 2013 is the best we have tasted with lifted fruit and appealing openness. The Clay Shales is refined and shows more focus, which Peter-Allan says is typical of the site these grapes come from.
These are fine wines indeed and the Tim Atkin praise is well deserved. The 2013 is without a doubt the best vintage of these wines yet.

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Christian Eedes’ tasting notes

Crystallum Peter Max Pinot Noir 2013
Grapes from Hemel en Aarde Valley, Hemel en Aarde Ridge and Elandskloof. Initially quite wild on the nose (raw meat, chicken manure) but opens up to reveal attractive red and black cherry aromas. Relatively light bodied with a definite stalky edge (40% whole bunch fermentation).
Crystallum The Agnes Chardonnay 2013
50% Greyton, 25% Overberg and 25% Hemel en Aarde Valley. Notes of blossom, white peach, lemon and some burnt matchstick An impressive core of fruit and gentle acidity. Good weight without being at all clumsy.
Crystallum Clay Shales Chardonnay 2013
Grapes from the Overberg (beyond Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge). Pear, white peach and that intriguing burnt matchstick note again. Pure fruit and bright acidity before a pithy finish. Beautifully poised and really elegant, almost delicate.
Crystallum Bona Fide Pinot Noir 2013
Grapes from Hemel en Aarde Valley. Shy nose but the palate shows excellent depth of flavour – red and black cherry plus spice and a subtle meatiness. Full but wonderfully coherent – it’s not really possible to differentiate between fruit, acidty and tannin. Has a real Burgundian sense about it.
Crystallum Mabelel Pinot Noir 2013
Grapes from Elandskloof. Enticing nose of subtle musk and potpourri. Light bodied with pure fruit, bright acidity and wonderfully fine tannins (no whole bunch fermentation). A really pretty wine.
Crystallum Cuvée Cinéma Pinot Noir 2013
Grapes from Hemel en Aarde Ridge. Black fruit, earth and an obvious but not too discordant note of oak (matured for 11 months, 30% new oak). Rich and full with soft but sufficient acidity and relatively smooth tannins.


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