Beaujolais is the new Burgundy: Foillard and Burgaud

Beaujolais has come a long way from the frivolous, fruity nouveau wines that gave rise to its present humble reputation. Led by revolutionaries such as the late Marcel Lapierre in the ’80s, there is a new generation of growers focusing on terroir and more natural winemaking, producing serious long-ageing wines.
Technically part of the broader Burgundy region, it has more granitic soils, a warmer climate and the wines are, of course, made from Gamay Noir.
We offer two leading Beaujolais producers based in Morgon: Domaine Jean Foillard and Domaine Jean Marc Burgaud. The village of Morgon, and particularly the hillside of Côte du Py, produces earthy wines that can take on a Burgundian character and silky texture after five years’ ageing. With 4 tiny Burgundy crops in a row leading to rapidly rising prices, these are terrific value. Beaujolais is the new Burgundy!

Domaine Jean Foillard is a leader in natural wines and uses only small amounts of S0₂. ‘These are wines with presence and weight, matiere, packed to the rafters with fistfuls of fruit without excessive or obvious effort,’ says Neal Martin. This includes keeping whole clusters of grapes in vats for 2 to 3 weeks at a low temperature before fermentation, using only natural yeast, no pumping, no fining and no filtration. Furthermore, Jean Foillard ages his wine in barrels brought from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti; the results are sublime. He is a cult wine hero amongst the many young, free-spirited vignerons in France who are now looking back to nature to make fine wine.
Jean Marc Burgaud‘s Beaujolais are slightly more modern than the natural wines of Foillard, although he works very traditionally. ‘Stylistically they lean toward Burgundy in style: more serious Beaujolais wines that will reward cellaring,’ writes Martin.

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Tasting notes
 
Jean Marc Burgaud Les Vignes De Thulon Villages 2011
The Burgaud 2011 Beaujolais-Villages Les Vignes de Thulon exhibits aromas of ripe cassis tinged with smoky black tea, piquant huckleberry, smoked meat, and toasted caraway. (It’s almost as though there were a dosage of Gewurztraminer.) Exuberant and invigorating in its tart freshness, I could easily have imagined a young 2010 before me. A saliva-inducing lick of salt and even the wine’s bit of textural graininess that lightly catches in the throat add to the appealing stimulation of an energetic, generously juicy finish. Once again, this is among the most successful wines of its ubiquitous appellation, not to mention a fine value. – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Jean Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2011
Juicy and satin textured with real substance and bone-dry finish. Very convincing. – Jancis Robinson
Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2012
The 2012 Morgon Cote du Py has an immediately seductive and engaging bouquet with fine definition: light wild strawberry and red currant scents that are nicely focused. The palate is nicely balanced with supple tannins, nicely judged acidity and, as Jean himself describes it, an “honesty” that will give pleasure over the next 5 to 6 years. This is very fine. Drink now-2020. The tasting finished with two vintages of the Cuvee 3’14.” Though it is seen as Foillard’s most prestigious cru, I interpret it more as a different take on Morgon and not implicitly superior compared to the Cote du Py. Jean Foillard told me that he only releases it when he can see a tangible difference between these vines and the rest of his parcel. – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate


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