I thought I would write about the energetic Young Guns tasting in Cape Town presented by Wine Cellar quickly after the fact whilst I am still basking in the after glow (the most pleasant description of a hang over to date) of such inspiration and enthusiasm. Although I can’t speak objectively about the Terra Cura, Silwervis and Wine Cellar’s own label wines (as I am involved in those projects – mainly through waxing those darn bottles) but there were a few wines that really stood out for me at the tasting.
Pinotage… wait what? Again? That’s right and two of them. Gavin Slabbert presented his new project B Vintners (in partnership with Bruwer Raats) of a white blend and a Pinotage. He spoke about the history of the Pinotage grape – yes a South African grape – and the heritage, importance and the future of this variety in South Africa. We are seeing Pinotage move into an exciting direction year after year as winemakers take this, at often times, mistreated grape and make exciting, honest and lively wines. Who knew the grape was always capable of this? It has unfortunately suffered at the hands of the choca-mocha-coffee fad but it seems there is light at the end of the tunnel. Gavin’s Liberte 2012 Pinotage is a pure expression of the grape’s characteristics with essence of red currant, plum and cranberry followd by those unmistakeable Pinotage grippy tannins. The South African forefathers who made Pinotage were probably not so aware we would be drinking the wines 30, 40, 50 years on from harvest and taking inspiration from these elegant yet bold wines. We have still so much to learn but if we know one thing, is that Pinotage can age and this wine is going to age for decades.
The second Pinotage was presented by Thinus Kruger of FRAM – my first article on Vine Venom highlighted a new style, dare I say movement, that Pinotage has been undergoing for the past couple of years and Thinus’ 2013 confirms this direction is here to stay. The wine is elegant, lean with herbal notes of fennel, garrigue and again red fruits. Both Pinotages show that slight meaty edge no doubt that both its parents of Pinot Noir and Cinsault contribute. This certainly is exciting times for South Africa’s very own grape variety if you’re after something that doesn’t taste like a Starbucks.
Another strong category South Africa has to offer is Chenin Blanc with Gavin’s Chenin Blanc led blend Haarlem to Hope, Jasper Wickens’ Swerwer and Tremayne Smith’s The Black Smith Vin Blanc all representing a variety of styles and regions. The Black Smith involved skin contact fermentation which really highlights the versatility Chenin Blanc has to offer showing the leaner, zesty and citrus profile of Chenin Blanc. In comparison the Swerwer is more rounded, weighty and mineral – both two extraordinary, honest and upfront examples of this multi-faceted grape variety.
Young Guns is more than just a “kuier” – it brings to the forefront the pulse behind the cellar doors and the even more promising and exciting future South Africa has to offer. In 50 years time we can look back on these tastings and really say “we tasted it there first!”
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