The bombshell that Tim Atkin’s weekly wine column in the Observer is to be “slashed” to a three item laundry list (as Decanter gleefully reported on Monday) may have SA marketers reevaluating their guest list for the FIFA 2010 freebee in SA, but exporters need not fear a collapse of sales in Blighty as a consequence. For the connection between punditry and shifting stock is as clear as the link between astrology and predicting the future. While the first tier of commentators like Oz Clarke, Andrew Jefford and Jancis Robinson may have some effect, Tim was always a third order batsman. Heck, if having Wine Spectator rate Columella 95/100 (the best SA rating ever) resulted in zero sales in the US in the past 36 months for Eben Sadie, what value a Tip from Tim?

Tim Atkin

Tim describes himself as “not so much a gatekeeper as a vinous night club bouncer” and certainly this Vinnie Jones of Vino (albeit a rather small one) was certainly in the face of his local colleagues, calling SA wine writers “parochial, barely qualified fans with a typewriter” in Wine & Spirit magazine before offering his services as a UK barker for SA wine: “in the absence of a more robust domestic media… SA needs informed criticism from overseas.” Although with the rise and rise of SA wine blogs (www.winenews.co.za claim a 60% foreign audience) the categories of SA and foreign wine writer are becoming increasingly blurred. New York and London often supply more hits to Uncorked than Cape Town or even Bellville, according to Google/Analytics.

Of course as co-chair of the International Wine Challenge, Tim was only speaking to his book. Although the IWC did not cover itself in glory when it awarded the Oak Valley Chardonnay 2006 both a Gold Medal and a Certificate of Commendation after the wine was submitted twice by producer (commendation) and retailer (gold). Perhaps this is what Tim means by “reliable advice” punters need in a recession?