Buitenverwachting cellarmaster Hermann Kirschbaum “is sulking” says owner Lars Maack. Which sounds like the title of an avant garde play Emile Joubert might write for Maynardville. “I’ve told him we must release the 2010 whites and I grubbed up the Riesling two months ago. It’s now a pile of braai wood.” Which confirms the influence of Wosa’s Cape Braai Masters book and is a huge blow to the Riesling Renaissance trying desperately to reach V1 for a sales liftoff. Riesling revivalist Paul Cluver will not be best pleased.

Riesling uprooter Lars Maack

Lars’ reasons for uprooting can’t be faulted. “Everyone tells me about a ‘Riesling Revival’ – but I’m still waiting. Our Rieslings are amongst the top in SA, but internationally, we’re nowhere. Our Sauvignon Blancs, on the other hand, are world class, so we shall focus on them going forward.” To prove his point, Lars poured an impromptu vertical tasting of the Big Greenie for the Good Value Guru and I this morning.

It is a pleasure to report that the 2006 is still fresh and toothsome with layers of nuanced complexity behind a shimmering veil of tropical fruit. The recently released 2010 is packed full of melon and mint and is a good buy at R70. Another R20 will receive a green injection in the shape of Hussey’s Vlei 2010 – a true terroir tipple.

The 2007 edition of the estate’s flagship red, Christine, will be released at R240 a bottle in December and no doubt snapped up for the Lufthansa first class cabin. Lars recently received a phone call from a passenger who had tried the 2005 vintage at altitude and was so impressed, he wanted to buy the farm. Estate agents Seeff value the place at R700 million but as Lars said “what would I do next? It takes 20 years to establish a decent wine estate.”

Well for R700 million Lars could buy the entire Darling appellation plus Pieter Dirk Uys. And after tasting the Ondine 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, the potential for the Big Greenie in this appellation is beyond doubt. Heck, The Yair 2009 Sauvignon/Sémillon blend from Tullie Family Vineyards at Lanner Hill came tops at the ultimate anorak blind tasting of Cape Winemakers Guild Auction wines last week. Even the hypercritical Cock Screwed columnist from Merlot & Grenache liked it.

So no wonder neighbour Steenberg has switched from Durbanville in 2009 to Darling in 2010 for fruit for their nautical HMS Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc which is now in serious danger of overshadowing their own (not too shabby) Sauvignon Blanc.