Wine of the Day #11: Julien Schaal Five Stones Chardonnay 2009

Cost: R120;
From: Paul Cluver farm, Elgin 33 (0)953 09 3775;
Why: The author of this subtle Chardonnay made from a mixture of Elgin and Hemel & Aarde grapes (the Kaaimansgat vineyard of previous vintages having been abandoned as “too virused”) is converting his Alsatian Riesling vineyards to biodynamic farming practices.

Julien Schaal at Kyoto Garden

Julien Schaal at Kyoto Garden

“Vintage 2010 was difficult in Alsace and the yields of my conventionally farmed vineyards were disappointing. My friend farms biodynamically and his production was best of all farmers delivering to our Co-op in Traenheim. His grapes were healthiest and the roots of his vines went so deep, when we dug holes, we couldn’t find the ends while mine ended at 40cm. So I have decided to switch to biodynamism – we stopped spraying pesticides some years ago, so it shouldn’t be so difficult and the biodynamic preparations are available commercially in France so that should be easier – you just have to mix them yourself.”

This commitment to “quality above all else” sums up this young winemaker who makes the stuff on both continents. Compared to the heavy hitting other five star Chardonnays from the 2011 edition of Platter (Rustenberg Five Soldiers 08, Groot Constantia 09 and Mulderbosch 08) this wine is delicate and light and gives you hope that not only show wines are rewarded by the guide. This is the third 2011 Platter five star stunner to emerge from the Newton Johnson cellar in the Hemel & Aarde (the others being the Shannon Mount Bullet Merlot 08 and Newton Johnson Domaine 09 Pinot Noir).

Rating: *****

*****: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
****: Rudolf Steiner
***: Johan Reyneke
**: Nicholas Culpeper
*: Mystic Meg