Masterchef magic adds sparkle to Nederburg

There are several explanations for the reason prices at yesterday’s Nederburg Auction rocketed 70% on last year. Exhibit A is Tsogo Sun emerging as biggest buyer. They were big last year but this year they’re a supernova. Last year’s Tsogo purchases sold out in seven weeks so loosening the wallet was a no-brainer. Besides, where else can you buy mature wines like the Nederburg 1999 Cabernet/Merlot and Chenin Blanc 2002, my picks of the wines knocked down by Anthony Barne yesterday? Certainly not at the Cape Winemakers’ Guild Auction next month. Tsogo plan to list their Auction wines at cost plus R150 direct to diners while retailers still have to add on their own hefty margins, leaving them with less wriggle room to bid as their restaurateur customers have to treble prices (at least) to make it worth their while. On Con buyers = higher prices.

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Exhibit B is improved wines. Could the selectors have chosen better bottles this year? Doubtful and why is it necessary to import bloggers at huge expense from overseas to choose the line-up when bottles sold to Blighty and Oz are negligible? Far better to rely on local sommeliers who are, after all, the people who will end up selling the stuff. It makes more sense than toadying up to a bunch of pampered free-loaders and will save plenty of carbon miles. The initials MW should stand for “more wine” and not a driving license to roar through the winelands, scaring the locals. As far as I can see, the foreign contribution to selection was a scandalously small number of Pinotages on offer this year. If the Nederburg Auction won’t fly the flag for SA’s only own grape, who will?

WOSA also suffers from cultural cringe syndrome, the ebola of expensive wine, which will maximize next year at Cape Wine 2015. Over lunch yesterday, WOSA chairman Michael Jordaan mentioned a change of focus to Africa so let’s hope there will be fewer Europeans invited to Cape Wine 2015 – which needs a serious name-change as the Western Cape is not the only source of SA wine and after three days spent tasting on the Orange, not even the best in some categories – and more Africans, Asians and Americans, both North and South. Europe will not save SA wine – they have too much of their own they’re not drinking.

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My own explanation for higher prices is MasterChefSA. Nederburg is suddenly fashionable – especially after Reuben Riffel joined the judging line-up – and Nederburg’s disruptive TV ad campaign featuring cellarmaster Raz van Macici – the vinous equivalent of Jamie Oliver without the pneumatic lips – has made the brand hip. “Sold at the Nederburg Auction” has become desirable bottle bling indeed. A much stronger currency than a Michelangelo sticker, a commercial enterprise that tried in vain to compete their Awards lunch at the Lord Charles Hotel with the Auction on Friday. As one disgusted producer noted “I ordered a glass of mineral water and the waiter asked for R15.” Talk about responsible drinking!