Mrs Robinson stirs the spittoon

Weekend FT wine columnist Mrs. Robinson has the Cape surfing fraternity in an uproar with her choice of “new(ish) wave cape wine producers.” Newish indeed as Shannon has been bottling wine for well over a decade. Her list:

• AA Badenhorst
• Blackwater
• Crystallum
• David (Sadie)
• Momento
• Mullineux & Leeu Family
• Paardebosch (by association)
• Porseleinberg
• Rall
• Sadie Family
• Shannon
• Storm
• JC Wickens

doesn’t feature too many Vinpro members, the organization that flew her out to the Cape earlier in the year. Not that the members mind for many is the UK expert who ends up in the Swartland after someone else has paid the bills. Not so, Andrew Jefford?

ip

The inclusions are fairly conservative: Blackwater is Francois Haasbroek who used to make the wine at Waterford while Hannes Storm did a ditto at Hamilton Russell. Marelise Jansen van Rensburg makes wine at Beaumont for Sebastian and Momento for herself while Donovan Rall made a couple of Lemoenfontein vintages for me. The 2008 white blend is drinking spectacularly well now. I was planning to sell it off for R10 a bottle to I Love My Laundry until I tasted a bottle at lunch at Haiku in Burg Street. Now I won’t sell it for anything less than R100 and it’s still incredible value.

But Oh Mrs Robinson, the sins of omission are very grave. What happened to First Growths Chris and Suzanne Alheit? Where is Craig Hawkins and Testalonga? John Seccombe and his Thorney Daughters or Julien Schaal? Louis van der Riet and his sublime Le Sueur natural Chenin Blanc? This laundry list will cause more trouble than its worth. One wonders what the international readers of the FT will make of this list as a bottle of David or Storm in Staines must be a rara avis indeed.

Still the cartoon by Ingram Pinn, a name straight out of Evelyn Waugh, is sweet.