The tables were turned on the sacred cows of wine today at Morgenster by that canny cashmere mogul Giulio Bertrand. At the launch of his 2011 Morgenster Bordeaux blend with Pierre Lurton of Chateau Cheval Blanc on the dias, guests were presented with six glasses of red to be tasted blind, scores assigned and handed in. My assessments with the reveal included, below.

#1 Essence of fine tomato, fresh, light and elegant. 17/20
Morgenster 2001

#2 Boney and nervous. 16/20
Chateau Prieur Lichine 2001

#3 Fresher, some mint. 18/20
Morgenster 2003

#4 Barnyard and meat. 15.5/20
Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2002

#5 Barnyard, burnt hair and horse. 15/20
Chateau Barton 2004

#6 Youngest wine. Clean, fresh and fruity with cashmere finish. 18.5/20
Morgenster 2004

Pierre and I both had the Morgenster 2004 in first place and while I had the host 1, 2 and 3 he had Guilio 1, 3 and 4. As Georgio Dalla Cia commented “I’m so proud of SA wine.” As was I so pleased to see the message of the merits of blind tasting has percolated right to the top of the SA wine pyramid.

I was seated next to the editor of the Platter wine label guide. Let’s hope he gets the message.