Mario Sergio is the Eben Sadie of Portugal. Located in the historic but terminally unfashionable Bairrada appellation – a bit like the Swartland 20 years ago – Mario Sergio is beloved of British wine writers like Janice (sic) Robinson and spoken of in hushed terms by young winemakers and Portuguese wine hacks.

His winery even looks a bit like Klein Amoskuil. There is an emphasis on old vine wines and longevity.

But unlike Eben who embraces obscure and funky varietals like Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Mourvèdre, Mario Sergio makes do with Baga, the terminally unfashionable reg grape of his appellation – a bit like Pinotage in the Swartland – and fashions many an elegant sow’s ear.

Eben is surrounded by a fan club of nerds, nudniks and self-appointed PRs basking in his reflected glory. Mario Sergio gets by with Bernardo de Crux Almeida who was a leading artist’s model in SA a generation ago. His sister made his trademark hat. Bernardo would spend many a late night in the Clubs of Cape Town and Hillbrow and then report for duty at his art class and get paid R350/hour to sleep it off. A king’s ransom in those days.

Does he miss anything about SA? “Just the women.”