Whether Tokara is left bank or right bank is a finely poised question of Stellenbosch terroir. For at a tasting of new releases in situ yesterday, it was clear that the producer’s strongest suits are a Bordeaux-style red and white blend called the Director’s Reserve. Although staff refer to them as “Black Labels” among themselves. Which is unfortunate, as that moniker has already been appropriated by a Scotch whisky and a producer of Pinotage further up the Simonsberg.

If I was Tokara trustee GT Ferreira, I’d dump the Syrah and give Chardonnay the flick – although they are nice wines indeed – for only a billionaire can truly follow a pure vision when not snorkeling at Bassas da India. And one estate, one wine (white and red) is as pure and authentic as it gets this side of the Mozambique Channel. The Elgin Sauvignon Blanc deserves a brand of its own and a distance from the Stellenbosch property, as Oak City should not aspire to be like Franscchoek, where the best wines are made from grapes grown outside the appellation.

The Director’s red blend was a 2012 vintage – a year unfairly overlooked in snifferatti and spiteratti circles – and contains four of the famous five Bordeaux varietals. All that’s missing is Malbec, which is a pity as there is Malbec on the farm and Malbec is a dark horse challenging Pinotage as premium niche cultivar of choice in Stellenbosch. It will set you back R350 a bottle and Jo Schmo rates it 95 points.

The white blend hails from 2014 and is the usual mixture of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It sells for R225 per bottle and Value Val scores it 93. The button to order a bottle on my site is broken, so best source stock from the farm as most people do. By doing so, you also strike a blow against extortionate distributors who should get real jobs instead of parasiting producers with their outrageous margins of 30% plus marketing support charges. Skande!

Of course the answer to the left or right bank conundrum depends on whether you’re driving to Pniel or returning from it. Either way it puts Delaire Graff on the opposite bank, which is where it belongs, slap bang in the middle of all the photographs plutocratic guests of Laurence Graff snap from their bungalows (above). An outrageously large sign TOKARA – invisible from the farm itself – would improve the view from Delaire Graff even more. Perhaps artist Marco Cianfanelli can laser cut one or Strijdom van der Merwe can fashion one out of Port Jacksons.