The smallest wine column in Christendom is pleased as punch with the latest product to emerge from Robertson: Scotch.

Bottle of the Week: Scottish Cousin – 12-year-old Whisky

How much and where? R380; widely available

Why? The wine spittoon was upset last month by former canned pineapple czar Vivain Imerman who bought South African wine icon KWV. After selling his canned fruit business to Anglo American in the 1990s, Viv relocated to London and bought the whisky operation of Whye and Mackay.

In 2007, the whisky gig was sold to flamboyant Indian billionaire Vijay Mallya, and Viv’s re-entry into the booze business could be the shot in the arm Bacchus so desperately needs in South Africa.

With impeccable timing, Four Cousins, the Robertson wine brand that has revolutionised lifestyle wine drinking among middle-class South Africans, has released a trio of imported Scotches: five, eight and 12 years old, called Scottish Cousin.

Made in the highlands of Scotland by Angus Dundee, the 12-year-old is the one to go for. It’s half the price of Van Ryn 12-year-old brandy and comes in a premium gold box with a cork. No wonder then that whisky is on a roll while brandy slumps with sales having decreased 40% in just five years.

This is a whisky for folks that drink brandy. Nary a hint of peat or TCP, this is creamy tipple for people who talk dry and drink sweet. Silky smooth on the palate, the flavour profile is fruity and full strength.

With 25% of the blend single malt from Tomintoul and Glencadam distilleries in Speyside, only 860 cases were made. So as they say in the Gorbals of Glasgow, get your skates on and off with ye to Tops at Spar or Shoprite Checkers to secure stocks. After all, Christmas is only six months off.

Rating: ****

*****: Sean Connery

****: Annie Lennox

***: Gordon Ramsay

**: Ewan McGregor

*: Mel Gibson