What a fantastic Shiraz Showcase last night! Wine of the evening? The 2013 Doran Incipio which has 15% whole bunch Chenin and doesn’t need a take-away Woolies lasagna as food match like the Eagle’s Nest 2013 next door. The lasagna gag has gone down in SA wine lore as the explanation of why Dear Angela, an ancient and venerable wine label judge for the Platter label guide, blamed her poor opinion of early vintages on a dodgy Woolies take-away lasagna. Probably both past their sell-by dates.

Her partner in pomposity, Toxic Tim, was stalking around like an old hadeda with a sneer and I played a silly game, maneuvering myself to block access to fashionable producers or ones with fetching pourers like Rickety Bridge or Rijk’s whose new marketing manager Tiger is a game changer. Its the same game I used to play around oysters and crayfish at well-heeled launches like Oldenburg, denying access to WOSA Queen Su Birch and her bodyguard, Andre braiimaster Morgenthal.

No sign of WOSA last night, thank heavens. In fact there were very few celebrities on show and I’m not talking the chiskop cuvees here, either. Which is a pity as Shiraz is the consummate celebrity wine. Where were Jean Engelbrecht and Charles Back, the two biggest drawcards for the varietal? And where was the Swartland? Next time Shiraz SA should import a celebrity like Davey Wavey who added such a dusting of glitter to the Vineyard Hotel in Newlands, I heard from GM Roy Davies.

Perhaps the problem was the lexicographic geography of producers who were sited alphabetically instead of by style or inclination. Or price as the Orange River Cellars amazed with a 3l decanted papsak for R80. But discovery of the show was the Landskroon Paul De Villiers 2013. When did you last find a flagship, 95% new wood, for under R100?