A skelm for Mrs. Smith

My tiny organ choses cider today as sometimes there are better bets that wine.

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Bottle of the Week: Sxollie Granny Smith Cider

How much and where? R25; widely available

Why? Granny Smith is a chance Australian invention. Maria Ann Smith had been cooking with French crab apples in 1860s New South Wales and tossing the cores out of her kitchen window, as you do Down Under. A chance pollination produced a new varietal: not as tart as a crab apple, sweet but still crispy.

Which makes them ideal for a craft cider like Sxollie. The high acidity makes it an ideal accompaniment for food. Pork will work, as apple sauce is traditionally in the frame. A bacon buttie is fine if you’re a hipster but to be properly colonial, the dreaded Adelaide pie floater is called for.

A meat pie floating in pea soup, it was recognised as a South Australian Cultural Icon back in 2003. The brand name Sxollie, pronounced Skollie, gives it a South African dimension, a skollie being a home- grown larrikin in the Cape and a skelm everywhere else.

It was crowned “supreme champion” in the design and packaging category at the International Cider Challenge in London this year. Just the thing for cross-over success among wine snobs who need a fancy label to inform their palates.

Rating: ****

***** Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds

**** Ned Kelly

*** Shane Warne

** Kylie Minogue

* Rodney Rude