Think Pink – Italian Rosé

Looking at the relatively short list of my current favourite still pink wines I am rather surprised to find that there are as many Italian examples (five) as there are wines from Provence, the heartland of French rosé. I had thought that fine Provençal rosé was my preferred style: palest pink, bone-dry, silky smooth, scented by garrigue and enlivened by the imagined sound of cicadas.

But too many of the Provençal pinks I have tasted recently have been closer to what I would call the supermarket pink model, a bit sticky and sickly, with only the monotone smell of low temperature fermentation and suspiciously unintegrated acidity on the finish to keep them fresh – or just too watery to be interesting.


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