For those of us who can’t tell much of a difference between high-end Champagne and a run-of-the-mill sparkler,

relatively inexpensive Prosecco has long stood as a sort of Designer Imposter of the wine world: It gets the job done for a fraction of the cost of the French stuff. Who wants to spend $30 on a Bellini at brunch?

But, as the number-one market for Prosecco, Britain has embraced it perhaps a little too casually, with a number of pubs and restaurants forgoing the wine’s shapely glass bottle for the more service-friendly draught.

Problem is, that’s not exactly kosher with Prosecco winemakers.

You might imagine Italians being peeved at the general garishness of their fine(ish) wine being served from the egalitarian tap rather than the aristocratic bottle, but a consortium of Prosecco producers based in northern Italy are saying that on-tap Prosecco is nothing less than illegal.