Drinking wine wrapped in a brown paper bag is usually, er, frowned upon in mainstream American society.

But there’s a time and a place for everything—like right now on William Shatner’s new web show, “Brown Bag Wine Tasting.”

Let’s muse for a moment on the incongruity of William Shatner hosting a wine show. We wish all episodes started with a voiceover along the lines of, “Captain’s log, stardate 65253.7. Our destination is a wine shop on the planet Earth…” But alas, it does not.

On the upside, Shatner’s inaugural guest is the super-knowledgeable Alton Brown, who dishes about family history (Alton was super-close with his grandmother), Humphrey Bogart (Alton is a fan), and the meaning of the word “cook” (“It’s the best possible word,” Alton said). Then (starting around 5:45) he blind-tastes a sparkling wine Shatner pours from a brown paper bag.