Forget about a Test Kitchen, Cape Town’s premier chef Luke Dale-Roberts should think of opening a Test Wine Bar adjacent to his gastronomic palace in Woodstock. For Luke’s canteen is fast becoming the go-to venue for brands wishing to make a splash. It started earlier this year when KWV launched their Mentors Range with excluded hacks complaining like pig bellies stuck with black lacquer. Shame!

Last week it was the turn of Banghoek beauty Oldenburg to show off their Chenins Blanc, Chardonnays, Cabernet Francs and an amazing Bordeaux blend called Rhodium which I thought was the collective name for Rhodes University old boys but turns out to be a rare metal used in jewellery. Here is Oldenburg cellarmaster Philip Costandius comparing jewellery notes with Luke.

The lunch was restricted to five courses including a Canadian scallop, appendix of lamb and the finest cheese board this side of Parmalat’s factory in Bonnievale.

Whether it was the situational variables, the witty chat from Graham Howe, Allan Mullins and Winnie Bowman or the intrinsic quality contained in the bottles, but the Oldenburg wines tasted mighty fine.

Is this the future of wine reportage? A handful of selected “journos” – I use the term loosely as wine columns in dead tree media are rarer than the proverbial rocking horse droppings – a top draw restaurant and an informed winemaker who can lead palates through the vintages on display.

It’s probably a lot cheaper than a catered “do” and the food is undoubtedly better than the disastrous Standard Bank Top Ten Chenin lunch that saw the Delaire Graff chef depart the next day.

Will it result in more sales? Most definitely when Test Kitchen sommeliers are brought into the equation. Heck, Luke should give Wayve Kolevsohn her head and start a Test Wine Bar.