How much? R55;
Where? Topiary Wines, R301 Franschhoek 27 (0)21 867 0258;
Why? A blockbuster, fruit driven Shiraz with lavish, opulent oak and generous flavours of tobacco and vanilla. A statement wine that is more than a match for robust Chinese food of the Schezwan persuasion.

Topiary @ Sea Palace, Simon Stone and a fish (below)

The palate has broad, tofu-like texture with ample red and black berry flavours plus exotic spices and slippery tannins. Almost Australian in style, this maiden vintage wine presents a new Shiraz power in the Franschhoek Valley. A remarkable achievement drinking well at the minute.

Rating? *****

*****: West Highland White Terrier by Jeff Koons at the Guggenheim, Bilbao
****: Guitar at Stiffkey
***: Cliveden
**: Much Wenlock Priory
*: Edward Scissorhands