Scenes of the new princess of Monaco weeping at her wedding on the weekend were not occasioned by news that her hubby faced a new round of paternity tests as the gutter press would have it, but rather that an organic wine producer from Provence had muscled onto her big day. For as any fule kno, Preston Haskell and Dombeya supplied the drinks and after tasting the Dombeya Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, I felt I was back in that sunny place for shady people as Somerset Maugham so splendidly summed up the principality.

For along comes Decanter with the scoop that Provence was actually victualling the VIPs: “the 2007 vintage in red, a blend of Cinsault, Grenache Noir and Syrah, and the 2010 vintage in white, a blend of Clairette Vert, Vermentino and Ugni Blanc, and a rosé, will be served” all from Domaine Saint Albert, a 15ha organic vineyard in Provence. Come on chaps, get a grip. The groom’s name may be Albert, but he ain’t no saint, thank heavens!