The 70% solution

In addition to having numerate brands (282, 2, 3, 5), Elgin Ridge and Constantia Glen have something else in common: they both export 70% of their production, primarily to Europe. The reason for colonial destinations is clear as both sets of owners hail from that parish. But in the case of ER, the fact that their wine is not only organic, but biodynamic too, plays well.

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Marion Smith’s 70 dexter cows come to the party in the shape of poo preparations and horns to bury the muti in, too. Another biological component is winemaker Kosie van der Merwe, the only man in Elgin with a beard and concrete eggs. These biodynamic recepticals are local knockoffs of those designed by M. Nomblot – a Peter Sellers character if ever there was one.

The cement eggs are terrific for tannin extraction and mouthfeel. They have one at Constantia Glen too, plus some clay amphora. Made from Hout Bay clay by Yogi de Beer, these vessels take terroir to the next level so its surely only a matter of time we’ll see them hatch in Elgin.

Harald’s Thursday lunch at Aubergine was a wonder. Natural selection decanted all the nerds to a table in the corner so they could visualize the wines and skinder ter dee in semi-private. Everyone else ignored them, which is pretty much what happens to their pompous comments.

The amuse bouche of a scallop in Darjeeling infused fromage blanc combined the Raj with the French and the bounty of the local seas, artfully matched to the mostly ER Pinot Noir bubbly that is a triump of oxidation. The starter of kingklip (hilariously mistaken for king fish by wine speculator magazine some years ago when they hired a soccer mom to write a feature on Stellenbosch) with sauteed abalone continued to push out Neptune’s boat into deeper waters.

Served with the 2015 vintage 282 Sauvignon Blanc which you can taste this for yourself with the excellent tapas at Fork on Long Street, Cape Town, along with six tapas dishes plus a double espresso for change from R100. Duck breast was up next and went down like a Donald Trump tweet alongside the 2013 Pinot Noir (Trump being named after a famous Disney character, quack, quack!).

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But the best was kept for last – the tarte of Gondesa Belegen was so good it could have come from Cassis. The oxidative 1996 Chenin reminded of sherry, which is on such a roll, I’ll be covering the wonderful trio from DGB in my tiny organ next week.