The news that Len Maseko, wine writer (and acting editor) of the Sowetan, is to resign over the Eric Miyeni column in that organ, is yet another body blow to the SA wine press. Ironically Eric was fired over an attack on the sainted editor of City Press, a newspaper that for a shining moment had a wine writer of its own, gorgeous Greg Landman.

Greg Landman, former City Press wine writer

Alas Greg’s column was discontinued as wine was considered to be of little interest to City Press readers and Greg was redeployed to opera and ballet. So perhaps Len’s greatest achievement was the existence of a wine column in the Sowetan. SA producers will be hoping it continues. A big ask in a South Africa that could not support a hardcopy version of WINE magazine but can double the circulation of Whisky magazine, edited by fabulous Fiona McDonald who used to wield the editor’s corkscrew at WINE.

Len leaves at the same time as UK wino Malcolm Gluck departs from The Oldie, firing a bad tempered broadside at wine writing as he heads for the door, calling it “‘clichéd’ and ‘uninteresting’, the notion of terroirs and soil types ‘utter bollocks’ and wine merchants ‘largely liars’” according to Decanter magazine and takes a swipe at his successor Robert Joseph, who also makes some wine. Robert is no stranger to SA and used to run the Swiss International Wine Awards for Christine Cashmore and her Good Food and Wine Show.

Malcolm insists that Robert won’t do as “If you’re a wine producer how can you be a wine writer? It’s a ludicrous conflict of interest” to which Robert points out that many of the most respected wine writers in the world like James Halliday, Steven Spurrier and Hugh Johnson also make wine before invoking the Richard Nixon ‘I’m not a crook defense’: “In the end it comes down to integrity and whether you have it or not. Reputation is something you earn, and I’ve been doing this a long time.”

A colleague comments “this might be perceived as either naive or foolish by some; if one’s own wines and investment are in competing against products likely to be reviewed by one’s own pen… does this not present an objectivity question mark against unbiased reviewing?

I have noted that so many wine writers use the feeble ‘integrity defense’ – and though I certainly believe many are genuine…. surely it is best to declare any possible professional conflict and see how the audience responds?

The world of wine writing is more polluted than Prince William Sound and I am more than slightly embarrassed to say I have any involvement. My solution is not to judge other’s wines but simply to write about people and places of interest within the fine wine orbit: thus, my bottom is severely dimpled by recalcitrant fence sitting. Oh to be free and independently wealthy!”