Kakamas, the western most pearl on the necklace of wineries of the Orange River Cellars, emerged as champion last night at a French-themed Tops at Spar ORC Winemaker of the Year dinner at the Naba Lodge in Upington. Alas enthusiasm for France failed to aid them in their thrashing by New Zealand on the rugby field last night. But Les Bleus can console themselves that they make better wine than the Kiwis. And Cognac too, as the bottle of 1875 Fine Champagne we tasted yesterday afternoon from the cellar of Tinus van Niekerk attested.

Champion winemaker was Bolla Louw whose blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blew the socks of judges flown in from the Western Cape for the weekend. Winemakers RJ Botha, Guy Webber, Ntsiki Biyela and Abe Beukes were most impressed. ORC are carving a swath through SA wine with their reds, just like the Orcs in JR Tolkein’s Lord of the Rings.

Incredible colour, silky tannins and intense flavours. If the Orcs can supply in reasonable volumes at a decent price, the hobbits of Stellenbosch will have to retreat to the Shire (Devon Valley) and play with their chameleons and wizards.